A Different Side of Provence: Cycling the Verdon and Var

One of those views that stops you mid-ride and reminds you exactly why you came. The Verdon Gorge, Provence.

When most people think of Provence, they picture lavender fields, hilltop villages, and long lunches somewhere in the Luberon or near Aix. And yes, that version of Provence is beautiful. But it’s not quite where we ride.

The Provence we base ourselves for this cycling retreat is a quieter, less polished, and, in my opinion, far more interesting from the bike. It’s tucked away in the Var region, where the roads open up and the landscape feels just that bit more raw. It’s the kind of place that surprises people.

A Different Side of Provence

We stay in a small village that you could easily miss if you didn’t know it was there.

At its heart is a beautifully preserved medieval quarter, with narrow streets, old stone buildings, and a timeless feel you only really find in places that haven’t tried too hard to be discovered. The rest of the village is tiny, which is part of its charm, but it’s that old medieval centre that gives it such a special atmosphere. It’s not busy, it's not curated, and that’s exactly the point.

A glimpse of the medieval heart of Villecroze, where our Provence week begins.

.From there, the riding starts almost immediately. No long transfers, just quiet roads that wind their way through vineyards, forest, and open countryside. It’s Provence, without the crowds.

This year will be my fourth year in a row heading back to the region, and there’s something really special about that. Not just the riding, but the people behind the scenes who help make the week what it is. It’s a genuine pleasure working with the owners of our home away from home each year. They care deeply about the experience, and it shows in all the small details that guests might not always see, but definitely feel.

Riding That Keeps You Curious

What I love about this region is the variety. One day you’re rolling through vineyards and small villages, the kind of riding where the kilometres tick by easily. The next, you’re heading towards something a little more dramatic. And then there’s the Verdon.

It’s hard to describe the first time you ride there. The scale of it, the colour of the water, the way the road clings to the edge of the gorge. It’s one of those rides where you find yourself stopping, not because you have to (well maybe ;-), but because you want to take it in. It’s not about speed. It’s about the experience of being there. And that’s very much the theme of the week.

Effort, Then Something Softer

The riding has its challenges. There aren't many, if any flat roads in the region. There are days where you feel like you’ve earned your glass of rosé. But there’s also space. Late afternoons by the pool. Time to stretch and unwind. Long, relaxed dinners and the opportunity to reset before the next day. Nothing rushed, nothing over-structured. The balance isn’t accidental. It’s something I think about a lot when putting these weeks together.

Who It Suits

This part of Provence tends to attract riders who want a bit of both. People who enjoy a challenge, but don’t need it to be all about numbers or performance. Riders who appreciate good roads, but also good food, good company, and a bit of breathing room in between. It’s not a training camp, and it’s not a sightseeing tour either. It sits somewhere comfortably in the middle

The Provence That Stays With You

There’s something about this region that lingers. Maybe it’s the quiet roads. Maybe it’s the contrast between the softness of the sunsets and countryside with the drama of the gorge. Or maybe it’s just the rhythm of the week, riding, recovering, and doing it all again the next day. Whatever it is, it tends to shift people’s idea of what Provence can be. And once you’ve experienced it this way, it’s hard to go back to the postcard version.

If this sounds like your kind of cycling holiday in Provence, send me a DM or email to register your interest for 2027.